Monday, September 15, 2008

Glorious Yellowstone

Odometer: 69,035
Price of gas: $3.84
Worland, WY to Gardiner, MT

I’ll warn you up front this is going to be a fairly long post, but mostly photos, at least…

This morning I set off for Thermopolis, the “WORLD’S LARGEST MINERAL POOL”. That might even be true, for all I know. It is a very pretty town, small, and has a Hot Springs State Park with all kinds of fun stuff in it. First of all there’s a teepee fountain made from mineral deposits from the water:



Then there’s three different mineral pool options: two pay options with waterslides (that don’t seem operational at this hour of the morning) and a free option through the state of Wyoming. The only drawback to the “State of Wyoming Bathhouse” is that you’re only allowed 20 minutes.



But it’s 104 degree pool full of minerals… and I’m not really into paying for waterslides anyway. I take the 20 minutes and chat up an old bugger who was married 32 years ago this Friday in Glacier National Park. Cool! He’s disgusted by the republicans, and the financial crisis, and everything else… we managed to hash through all the issues in short order. He gives me a warning from the universe – it has to do with bears and bodies – and I start thinking about camping tonight. Hmm.

I also walk the mineral pool grounds:







So reminds me of the Czech Republic. Ah, nostalgia.

I drive on up to Yellowstone, into the first visitor center I can find, and talk to the rangers there. The ranger tells me it will be “into the 20s” at night. Yeah. At Glacier the first night it was 38. I was okay but not great. Another 10-15 degrees is probably more than I will do well with. I think hotel, though this doesn’t make me happy. I check with the nearest one – the Lake Lodge and the efficient woman says, “I’m sorry to inform you there are no rooms in the park.” She revises this slightly to say, “no beds” e.g. I can find a camping spot. Hmm. I contemplate my options, and finally decide I will drive half of the loops and head for Gardiner, MT. I manage to get a relatively cheap room (e.g. under $100) at one of the hotels. Everything else was $150 and up, so I consider this fairly well done. I’m stunned there still this many people at Yellowstone. Go home! It’s a Monday in mid-September! Go home!!

My original intention was to take a ranger hike of an area called Mud Volcano. But it’s only 2:45 and the hike isn’t until 4 and I just decide not to wait. I’ll walk the area, then take the slow road down.

At this point, pictures (and a video) probably do more justice than words. Yellowstone is a giant caldera with lots of hydrothermal and volcanic activity. This means there’s all sorts of totally weird stuff going on. In the mud volcano area, it’s exactly what it sounds like.


Looks nice enough, but will burn your skin off!

The churning cauldron, obviously enough...



That is so the wrong shade of green for grass.

Sorry the video is sideways. This is called "Dragon's Breath Cauldron" Obvious once watched.

Then just down the road is the Sulfur Canyon, with icky yellow pools of bubbling good – it’s PH 1, 10 times more acidic than lemon juice, and slightly less acidic than battery acid. Note the buffalo just hanging out in the area. Hmm.


Speaking of buffalo, we see a lot of them on the way down:


Mama and baby


That ball of dust is a buffalo rolling around rubbing itself.

And it’s just a perfect, glorious day:



And then there’s Artist Point, and the Lower and Upper Falls:


Lower Falls

Artist Point

Upper Falls

A quick survey at the Lower & Upper Falls nets me 19 states and 3 provinces license plates.

Not to mention some Free Hugs folks:



The two in the blue & black shirts got married yesterday. Originally from Ohio, the rest of the people are family visiting from there for the wedding. I congratulate them, we group hug. They also manage to high-five a lady in her truck. Life is good.

More way-down scenery:







Just as I’m reaching the end of the park, there are elk. A family more or less – bull elk (magnificent antlers!), a few females, a couple babies. The visitor center had a fire alarm go off, so I’m not going to get in there, and I flee for town.






Gardiner has the whole cowboy vibe down. Just as the sun is dipping behind the horizon, I take off on my bike and manage the whole town in about 15 minutes. I decided dinner will be a Helen’s Corral Drive-Inn, home of the Hater Burger. Burgers are only one size, ½ pound. And a huckleberry shake, thank you, all taken down by a girl from Moldava. It’s a 15-napkin burger with grilled onions and lots of pickles. Yummmm.

This is my 4th national park of this trip – Glacier, Voyageurs, Badlands, Yellowstone – and I’m truly astonished by all of them. They are all unbelievably unique places and stunning in their own ways. I wish we’d designate more areas national parks. Maybe it would dilute their value, but I suspect there are more areas that are unique and could benefit from protection. I know we came to Yellowstone on one of our car camping vacations, and I know I’ve seen Old Faithful. I’m still just stunned and enjoying what I’m seeing today… I’m a little overwhelmed, actually. There’s so much to take in. It’s so unbelievably amazing.

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